Wednesday, 23 March 2016

The bridal shower - photos

Giving gifts


Ats uncovering me

Food prep (without power!)
My grand entrance
Awaiting unveiling
Atkins' entourage

Ats trying to work out what he is supposed to be doing
Showing respect

Preparing food at my house beforehand
With my soon to be sister, Christine
With Mama Rose

The bridal shower

So, part 2 of 3 of the marriage process.

My bridal shower was to take the more modest place of a kitchen party, an important pre-marriage event, that for some couples actually constitutes the marriage itself, traditionally if not legally.
Basically, lots of women come along and bring the bride everything she needs to set up her kitchen, including a fridge, oven etc. It is a very important event for the bride.

I didn’t want such a big event, ovens being hard to pack in a suitcase, so I arranged to have a bridal shower. I wanted to have a nice event where I could thank and celebrate with the women I wasn’t able to invite to the wedding. As I have written before, things morphed as a committee took charge, and the event turned out rather differently to what I had anticipated.

Atkins and I had ourselves all ready, with our matching outfits (way less dorky than it sounds). (If I’m being honest, the excuse to get a really Zambian dress made was a strong motivating factor in having the event. I was pleased with the results – see photos.)

We drove across town to pick up his sisters and my wana chimbusha (the woman who ‘prepared’ me for marriage through some interesting tutorials). At this stage things were about 2 hours behind schedule, which didn’t bother anyone except me, and Atkins. Poor thing – my regard for punctuality must be rubbing off him.

Food was prepared, make-up applied, all without power. I was quite pleased with my make-up efforts. Done in a very dark room, I managed to avoid a Bridget Jones-ish blusher incident.
We headed down to the venue, which had been decorated very nicely. We were not the only ones behind time. I finally entered the hall at 4pm, 3 hours after the time the invitations had naively stated the event would begin.

My entrance was a new experience for me. Myself, my wana chimbusha and another woman were covered in a chitenge and crawled in on our knees, to the accompaniment of drumming. I was then kept covered until Atkins arrived to unveil me. That bit was surprisingly fun, and felt less demeaning that I had expected. I felt like a really nice Christmas present.

I then had to kneel before my future husband to show my submission to him. Not my favourite part, and only agreed to after he promised to do the same for me at our New Zealand wedding, and thereby set himself apart as an extraordinary Zambian male. Gifts were also presented to my Zambian ‘mother’ and representatives of Atkins’ family. We grabbed a quick hug and kiss, and he was then escorted out.

It was again a female-only zone. People ate, there was some entertainment, I was asked to dance for everyone and was then returned to my platform. I wanted to dance more, but apparently it was not appropriate for me to do this in front of future in-laws (in case it made them think about what Atkins and I would be getting up to in the bedroom). I acquiesced, but no such restraint will be shown at the wedding!

People soon began drifting off, and we too returned home. No reunion with Atkins yet though – I was sequestered away in the neighbour’s house while my wana chimbusha prepared for a final ceremony.
When she was ready, I was led to my bedroom, where Atkins was waiting with my wana chimbusha. I knew that we were going to be briefed on the physical aspect of marriage, so was rather concerned as to the role the cooked chicken in the middle of the room was to play. Luckily, it turned out just to be another reassurance to Atkins that he will not starve at the hands of his new wife.

Some rather intriguing instructions on personal hygiene and other matters followed. I was presented with some needles for reattaching any errant buttons of Atkins’ and warned that one must never borrow needles or salt from anyone, because these are potent vessels for witchcraft.

By now I was beginning to slip into culture shock, but wana chimbusha was finished. The house emptied out, and we were alone, kind of married. My first words to my new husband were “darling, I really don’t want to shave your armpits like she said I should.” His response? “Sweetheart, I can’t think of anything worse.” And that’s why I’m marrying him!

All said and done, it was a fascinating experience, and I am so glad I did it because it meant a lot to Atkins’ community, and reassured the people around us that I respect Atkins’ culture, and want to be part of it. Some parts of the ceremony were really moving, such as both being formally accepted by our respective in-laws. Other parts were really fun, like the dancing. Some parts, like the kneeling, I fundamentally balked at, but accepted that not doing it would ostracise us both, and would also be too insignificant a gesture to improve women’s status here. Overall, I was humbled that all these people I barely, or even don’t know, were willing to open up their culture for me, and spend hours organising this event.

I feel that participating in both chilanga mulilo and the bridal shower has helped Atkins and I prepare for marriage. After each ceremony we have felt a little more married, and the experience has brought us closer, forcing us to discuss things we probably wouldn’t have otherwise. So while there are aspects of both ceremonies I would change, I can also see the mental and emotional benefits of thoroughly preparing for, and commemorating, an event as significant as a marriage.

Thursday, 17 March 2016

Am I really marrying him?

This is what happens when you remember to pack a change of clothes for after work, but not a change of footwear....

Hair

Most women here wear wigs or weaves, in the same way that most women in New Zealand dye their hair in some way.

This is because their natural hair doesn't grow very long, and is quite hard to manage.

Here is a photo of a shop in the market where you can go to buy your next hair style, and even have it 'installed' while you sit outside.

Chilanga muliloWith

Some pictures from the chilanga mulilo ceremony, a traditional ceremony either before a marriage, or even as the marriage, where the bride and her female friends and relatives make a big meal for the groom's friends and family.

Turned out a bit bigger then we anticipated, and with more beer and dancing.

The food on its way to Atkins' family
Learning to cook nshima
Being led out to cook nshima
With some of the ladies
The kitchen

A beginner’s guide to a Zambian wedding


A wedding can take many forms here. There are lots of different possible ceremonies and events. Somehow we have ended up doing ALL of them.

Amongst it all there is a lot of gift and money exchanging, speeches, dancing and eating. The overall intention seems to be to prepare the bride and groom, and also to create trust and respect between the two families. I think this is really nice, although I have strongly disagreed with a lot of the advice I have been given (the real low point being that I need to be sexually available to my husband any time and anyhow, otherwise he will find himself a girlfriend). NB: this is NOT true of Atkins. If it were, I would not be marrying him.

We are also both uncomfortable with the emphasis on the woman having to prove her worth through cooking and obedience, but have decided that it is important for us to experience all of this. We can still shape our marriage the way we want to, but doing all of this earns us a great deal of respect from our Zambian family and community, and gives us a real insight to the culture that we would never get otherwise.

Bana chimbusa and ba shibukombe
These are the female and male elders that myself and Atkins meet one-on-one with to be prepared for marriage. It’s not appropriate for me to share the secrets here, but for me they focused on ‘the bedroom’.

Chilanga mulilo.
This literally means ‘showing fire’. This where the woman and her family show the man’s family that she can cook, and also to show the man and his family what he will be eating in his married life. Ladies from the school I initially worked at, and some friends of theirs, very kindly did this for me. It ended up being a BIG occasion with a huge amount of food, including chicken, nshima, beans and local vegetable dishes. I contributed meatballs, macaroni cheese and lemon muffins.

Also part of the day for me was drumming and dancing, and being shown how to cook nshima. The food was taken to Atkins and his family on a truck with all the women singing and drinking beer. It was pretty epic!

Kitchen party (or in my case a slightly smaller event we are calling a bridal shower)
Traditionally, this is where the bride is given everything she needs to set up her kitchen. Details of mine to come.

The actual wedding

Some people do the church/reception version, others do something very small and traditional. Details of ours also to come!

The new game

Mango season is done now, so we have a new game.

Have you ever played horse? When on a car trip you get a point if you are the first person to see a horse and yell 'horese!'?

Well we have changed the horse to mzungu (white person). It's reallly quite fun, although can get contentious. Atkins doesn't think people from the Middle East or Asia count as mzungus so sometimes refuses to let me have my points...

Monday, 14 March 2016

The suit, part 2

So the time had come to go to the tailor to pick up Atkins' suit, and get the boys measured for their waistcoats.

I did some cat herding and got Atkins and his friend and myself all ready to go for 8.30 the next morning. We left at 9.30 which isn't too bad. We parked by a petrol station and waited for the other best man to tur up. Eventually he did, but by then the tailor had gone out to the bank.

The best man had to leave, so, Kiwi ingenuity at its finest, I used the flowergirl's dress I happened to have in the car to take his measurements before he headed off.

Eventually tailor, Rachel, Atkins and Joshua, the other best man were all reunited in the tailor's workroom and thing went swimmingly from there. Joseph is a fantastic tailor and we were very lucky to have him recommended to us.

P.S. stuff is cheaper here. He charged $40 NZ to alter Atkins' suit - at least a day's work.

Joseph the tailor

Louis Louis, Oh Oh.

"Have you ever kept a dog?"

"Yes, why?

"I have just put one on the grass. What should I do with it?"

This was my lovely neighbour who had just rescued a very injured stray dog who had apparently been beside the road for 3 days and was getting badly attacked by other dogs. He had probably been run over.

I am not really an animal lover, but as soon as I saw him, I was in love. And, like you should never do, I named him. Louis.

He was in a bad way, not able to move and not interested in food or water. As the day progressed, he began to perk up, and had a fried egg and some water. By morning, he was chirpy as.

There was clearly something wrong with his back legs, so I took him to the vet. They all fell in love too. He had an x-ray and things began to look pretty bad. Both his hips were totally destroyed, unbelievable considering how happy he seemed to be. The pain must have been horrendous. They also discovered he was a very old dog, around 15 years old. In the end, there was nothing for it but to put him down. Myself, the vet and my family at home who were being updated live on whatsapp were all in tears.

So here's to you Louis. You would have been the coolest dog ever to have as a pet.





Monday, 7 March 2016

Stylish

My niece and nephew to be

Hammering

If I've told you once, I've told you a thousand times!

Snail mail

I posted this on the first of December. It made its way to Atkins at his work on the first of March.

Our own swimming pool

A lots of the roads in Lusaka are not sealed. This is what they look like after a downpour...

Grandma not performing as you would like?

Well send her here!

Knickers in the window

Here, it is not really acceptable to hang your underwear to dry where people can see it. So on wash day, our house looks like a lingerie shop...

Success!

Yay! Pezo and I are employee of the month!

Some staples of the Zambian diet

Kapenta (a tiny dried fish)
Kapenta
Dried caterpillars
Beans, rice and peanuts

Pezo and Atkins doing the shopping

Shortcut


Traffic can be very bad here at times, especially on Monday mornings. I was spending way too much time (and fuel) stuck in traffic getting to my friend’s house, from where we would carpool to work.
So, Kiwi initiative in full swing, I went to the internet cafe and printed off a Google map of my area. From this, I identified a way to skirt around the congested roads.

Off I went.

Good start. So far I am where I want to be. Hmm, road has become a dirt road and has now become a cul de sac. Turn around. Ahh, back on track again.

Hold on. Road has come to a dead end again. Oh well. Turn around. Here we go! This is the right road.

Riiight, road has sort of dwindled and I am now in a compound (poorer area) with terribly pot-holed dirt roads and a lot of people starting at me. Very little other traffic and definitely no other foreigners. Nothing for it but to plough bravely on.


A ha! Sealed road. And I recognise where I am. I’ve done it! Very proud of myself. And I have saved a whole 2 minutes’ driving time. I am my grandmother’s grandchild.

Communal versus individual

Our society has become too individualistic. No argument. We have many people with mental health issues stemming from loneliness. More than a few elderly relatives have been abandoned, visitor-less, in rest homes, because it’s just too much trouble. We often focus on our own goals and ambitions more than working for the wellbeing of our family or community.

The positive side of our individualistic culture is that we value the individual. We encourage people to follow their dreams, whether or not these follow social convention. We teach our children to tolerate others, no matter their physical appearance, ethnicity or preferences. We have support groups and clubs for people of all sexualities, odd sports and hobbies (here’s looking at you Christchurch begonia society), niche spiritualities and non-mainstream lifestyle choices (e.g. nudists). There is an active Furries community in Christchurch for goodness’ sake (look it up). We encourage people to put their wellbeing first. And this is wonderful. We are all created unique, and I believe that being able and allowed to discover our true selves is our right and our delight in life.

Less so here. I can only imagine how long a nudist club would last in Lusaka. (Hmm...social experiment?) The positive side of this is that families stick together. There is always a meal or a bed at your brother’s/sister’s/aunt’s house, no questions asked. Traditions are maintained and people find great comfort, joy and identity in this. You are visited in hospital by everyone. Siblings’ children are educated if the parents can’t manage it. Friends help friends pay for their weddings.

The downside? People don’t get to be who they really are in the way that we can. It must be nearly impossible to escape the pre-determined roles of woman as home-maker and man as head of the family who doesn't show weakness. Wearing different clothes, eating different food, living your life in any way differently invites constant comment and demands relentless explanation or defence. Some days I feel it would be easier just to cook every meal myself rather than deal with another concerned/disapproving/astonished look from someone when I say that my fiancé cooked our supper last night.

I have many theories on why our cultures value what they do. Essentially I guess, communalism brings security, individualism freedom. We can afford freedom because we know that we will get paid this week. Is it a luxury? Another thing that poverty deprives people of?

So which is best? As with all great debates, there is wisdom and folly on both sides. I will fight tooth and nail for my right to be myself, so will probably never really fit in here. One of the hardest things about organising our wedding here has been resisting the immense pressure to do things the ‘right’ way,[1] and finding a balance of respecting and honouring tradition while also expressing ourselves on what is, after all, one of the most important days of our life (and not to mention the final destination of most of our savings). However, I will also strive to know my neighbours, share, serve my community and (at least occasionally...) put others’ needs ahead of my own.
  



[1] Please note: NOT from our close friends or Atkins’ family, who are amazingly open-minded. It’s the people we know less well – acquaintances, colleagues, the shop assistant....

Bridal shower bewilderment


A bit dated now – forgot to post it....

Our wedding is in two months. There is a lot to organise. More than enough to organise. But I have been told that I also need to have a bridal shower. This sounded OK. A few ladies around to paint our nails, eat nice food and swap relationship advice.

Not quite.

Rather than bridal showers, what normally happens here is a kitchen party. At this kitchen party, the bride-to-be is given everything she needs to set up her (notice the lack of the pronoun ‘his’anywhere near the word kitchen) kitchen. I’m not just talking plates and tablecloths. Gifts given include ovens, fridges and microwaves. Sweet deal. 

In exchange, the bride (or her family and friends) need to feed the invited guests, and provide a nice dress for the bride and some of her friends. All right, fair deal. Until you learn that 250 guests is pretty standard for a kitchen party. In many ways, it seems that this is more significant to the expectant bride than the wedding itself, because it is hear that she is armed with both the implements and advice she needs to be a good wife. Which, as I have mentioned before I think, correlates very strongly with her ability to satisfactorily feed her husband. (And provide for some of his other needs, which I won’t go into here.)

I didn’t intend to have a kitchen party. One reason for this is that I would struggle to fit an entire kitchen into my luggage when I return home. Another is that Atkins and I have established a relationship that is a little different from the Zambian norm, where we both cook and he loves me (I am almost entirely sure) not just for my passable cooking skills. Plus it would cost a fortune.

So, no kitchen party but a bridal shower. A nice chance to celebrate with the women I can’t invite to the wedding (which is modest by Zambian standards with only 120 guests) and have a bit of a giggle. So I asked some of the afore-mentioned ladies to have a chat about what I was proposing for my bridal shower, and to ask for a bit of help.

Well!

They had a lot to say. 5 minutes in and there was nary a trace of my original plans. There were requests for crates of beer, warnings that I must expect (and cater for!) gategrashers and that perhaps I should consider also having the all night dancing ceremony as well.

I cried and left, totally overwhelmed.

Eventually we reconvened and the lovely ladies have now said that they will arrange and finance my bridal shower as their wedding gift to me, which is incredibly kind. They are adamant that I need to experience real Zambian culture and have lasting and wonderful, memories of my bridal shower.


I really don’t know what will happen on the chosen day, March 19, but will be sure to report the details. Apparently at some point the ladies will wrap me in 6 metres of fabric and Atkins will make a brief appearance to unwrap me before leaving the female-only gathering. I’m only a teensy bit terrified....

A typical day


4.40am. Alarm goes off for Atkins to get up and leave for work at 5am. He is on morning shift this week. Rachel eventually goes back to sleep.


7.30am. Alarm goes off for Rachel. Yoga, breakfast. Leave for work at 9.15am.

10am. Arrive at work after eventually finding a petrol station with petrol. Traffic not too bad today.

10am-2pm. Work with the girls. Aerobics, timestables, reading, writing/grammar and a game.

2.45pm I pop into the local school where I have friends to discuss some bridal shower details. Again, happily, traffic wasn’t bad. The commute can take over an hour when it is.

3.15pm. Arrive home. Welcome home kiss from Atkins. We have power (although no water). Cup of tea. Happy.

3.15pm – 7.30pm. Around home. We discuss the guest list for the wedding. A friend of Atkins’ comes to visit. Two of the neighbours’ children come over to watch Brave. I look after the other neighbours’ baby for a while. We heat water to bathe. Make supper together (tomato and cucumber salad, sweet potato and soya pieces). Do some hand washing when the water comes back on.


7.30pm. Cuddle up in bed to watch a movie. As always, Atkins falls asleep before the end...

Thursday, 25 February 2016

Registering our marriage

So this is what a wedding is like

Atkins and I are planning our wedding blind, because I have never attended a Zambian wedding, and, surprisingly, neither has Atkins (I don't count him being late to his sister's).

Fortunately, the other day we were having a drink at a hotel where two wedding parties came through for photo shoots, so at least I know a bit more about the attire now.



















The rebel within us all

























Well I guess when you live with daily corruption, nepotism and unreliable amenities you get your power trips where you can....

There are pies here!

I have seen them around, but always been a bit scared to try. The thought of fatty, luke-warm meat and soggy pastry was not appealing. But the other day, it was pie or starve, so I chose pie. And Oh My Goodness! It was DELICIOUS! New Zealand has some pie competition.

P.S. This was taken during the most unlikely wedding planning meeting ever. The man who was supposed to do our decorations for the wedding has dropped of the face of the earth. So our neighbour gave us the number of someone else. She told us to come and see her in her lunch break at the main hospital. We ended up discussing colour schemes in front of a room full of (probably bewildered) women waiting for gynecological exams!

Culinary delights?

So I thought this was weird...



















But apparently not!




And this is definitely hilarious. I wonder how it tastes? Bitter? Sweet? Odd aftertaste? [NB my mother-in-law to be I would describe as sweet and strong]

Sweet wheels

Teenage boys are the same everywhere